Religious blend

Indonesia is known as a 90% Muslim country. I had first witnessed how devout Indonesian Muslims are in the Victoria Park, on my first Sunday in Hong Kong.

Shortly after my colleague had arrived from Jakarta on her assignment in Hong Kong, we decided to take her out for a welcome drink. "A drink?! I do not take alcohol", she said apologetically with that characteristic drawl. "Well, maybe a juice?", I wouldn't let go. "That would be ok, but before Friday. I start fasting then." "Oh, yeah, I forgot about the Ramadan! So it starts Friday?" "It started already, but women cannot fast during those days, you know." Come Friday, she was very fastidious about her fast, pardon the pun. She'd get up at 4 am to eat her breakfast before sunrise and go back to bed till morning. No drinks or water during the day. It must be a bit easier when others around you also observe the fast, but all of us were disappearing from the office around noon inevitably and very punctually, sometimes discussing where to go right in front of her; she’d always say it did not bother her. I am absolutely full of awe for her dedication in faith. No, she does not wear scarf.

It’s amazing how easily we tend to stereotype. Now, that I was visiting the Jakarta office, I totally expected nine in ten people to fast. But only some did. The canteen continued to operate as usual. Some wore scarves, some did not.

One afternoon, after an especially long workshop session, we got to the canteen minutes before closure. Tired and hungry, we picked up our food, hastily got down to a table and… froze with our forks ready to “attack” our food: our local colleague had just sat down, rested his fork and spoon beside the plate, closed his eyes and clasped his hands in prayer. Christian prayer.

Later in the day, I was working alone in an abandoned office room when a girl came in smiling: “Are you Irena?” An exchange of pleasantries followed. “I was told you are staying over the weekend to sightsee. I’d love to show you around, I’ll have time in the afternoon. In the morning I am seeing a priest.” “A priest?” “Yes, I’m getting ready for my wedding, my fiancé is a Catholic, and I am a Lutheran. So there’s a lot to discuss.” When we got together on Saturday, the dinner was considerately planned after sunset, so that our Muslim colleague could join us after breaking her fast.

My observations were summarizing themselves into an overall perception that various religions in Indonesia are blended very smoothly, that freedom of religion is paramount and well rooted. Nearly 90% Muslim, with world’s largest Muslim population, Indonesia also officially recognizes Protestantism, Catholicism, Hinduism, Buddhism and Confucianism. Irrespective of your religion, Ramadan Eid and Christmas are public holidays.

And just as I finalize this chapter, my ear registers a BBC headline report on the muffled TV: “Religious violence is on the rise in Indonesia. Is it threatening its democracy?”